As the season changes, so does our approach to cooking. We find ourselves drawn to heartier dishes, embracing ingredients like golden onions, earthy herbs, and rich root vegetables. With the arrival of fall, it’s a swift transition from the bright melons and summer tomatoes to the comforting embrace of a cast-iron casserole.
In my kitchen, “big cooking” has taken center stage recently; I’m talking about those recipes that simmer slowly and are best served with a ladle. It all began with a tray of late-season tomatoes, roasted alongside shallots until they had just the right amount of char and then drizzled with a creamy tahini sauce. As the autumn rains settled in, I moved on to a delightful mushroom stew with thyme, onions, and red wine, matched perfectly with some broccoli drizzled in a zesty sauce and accompanied by sticky rice.
Following that, I prepared a comforting dish of sausages and butter beans, lifting our spirits after yet another damp day. While I loved the leisurely meals of summer, there’s something invigorating about the shift to more substantial cooking. The simple act of peeling onions and letting dishes work their magic in the oven creates a depth of flavor that summer cooking just can’t replicate.
This slower pace builds anticipation. The aroma wafts from the kitchen as the onions and herbs begin to cook, enticing me with the promise of a hearty dinner that’ll be ready in an hour or more. Many of these dishes are forgiving; they patiently wait until we’re ready, and some, like the bean casseroles, often improve after a night in the fridge.
I truly relish these cooler evenings. Few things are more rewarding than spending an afternoon in the kitchen surrounded by onion peels and bay leaves. On chilly nights, I prefer the gentle sounds of something simmering in the oven to the sizzle of a summer grill. Cooking during autumn and winter, with its slower rhythm, friendly atmosphere, and core ingredients, always wins my heart.
The beans are dusted off from the pantry, the trusty casserole dish is ready, and I’m stocked up with carrots and bundles of thyme. My shopping bag is brimming with shallots, mushrooms, lentils, beans, and potatoes—all the essentials for the cooler days ahead that I eagerly welcome.
Let’s talk about a couple of comforting dishes that embody this season:
**Broccoli and Cauliflower with Sticky Rice**
This dish packs a punch, featuring the savory tang of fish sauce paired with chili warmth, making it a perfect match for broccoli and cauliflower. I personally prefer sticky rice over basmati here, as it cradles the umami-rich flavors beautifully. Vegetarians can opt for vegan fish sauce alternatives as well.
Serves 4
– 200g Thai sticky rice
– 75ml lime juice (about 2 limes)
– A few generous pinches of sugar
– 1 tbsp tamari (or soy sauce)
– 1 tbsp fish sauce
– 2 tsp chili sauce
– 1 medium aubergine
– 6 tbsp olive oil
– 3 small shallots
– 2 cloves garlic
– 40g ginger
– 250g cauliflower
– 250g tenderstem broccoli
– A small handful of mint leaves
– A large handful of coriander leaves
Soak the rice in water for about 3 hours (you can skip this step if you’re using a rice cooker). Mix lime juice, sugar, tamari, fish sauce, and chili sauce in a bowl, adjusting the sugar to your taste.
Set up a steamer over boiling water, line it with muslin, drain the rice, and steam for 25 minutes.
Prepare the vegetables by sautéing the diced aubergine in olive oil until soft. Then add shallots, garlic, and ginger, cooking until fragrant. Toss in cauliflower and broccoli and cook until tender, then incorporate the dressing and give it another simmer. Finish by mixing in torn mint and coriander before serving with the sticky rice.
**Braised Tomatoes with Tahini Sauce**
Perfect for those mixed varieties of tomatoes, this dish shines when the skins blacken for a smoky flavor. I like combining tart cherry tomatoes with sweeter types for depth.
Serves 3
– 250g large banana shallots
– 4 tbsp olive oil
– 6 sprigs thyme
– 2 tbsp sumac
– 1 tbsp dried oregano
– 2 tsp sesame seeds
– 750g tomatoes
For the tahini sauce:
– 2 small cloves garlic
– ½ lemon
– 90g tahini
– 100ml cold water
Preheat the oven to 180°C (fan). Roast shallots mixed with olive oil, thyme, sumac, oregano, and sesame seeds for 15 minutes, then add halved tomatoes and continue baking for another 45 minutes.
To make the tahini sauce, crush garlic, mix with lemon juice, tahini, and water until smooth. Serve the warm tomatoes and shallots drizzled with tahini sauce.
Whether it’s a comforting soup or a hearty stew, the dishes of fall allow us to savor the flavors of the season and embrace the warmth of home-cooked meals. What’s your favorite comfort food for this time of year?
